Cut, print, its a wrap

There is no place like home

What an adventure we had and it is good to be home. However I have been reminded by a couple of you that I promised (four weeks ago) one more post to tie up a few loose ends and wrap it up as "they" say.  So here I go…

I made my list and checked it twice before we embarked upon this journey. The spreadsheet was a handy tool although the Navigator believed there was no time in the schedule for spontaneity, I disagree. It helped us stay organized (as in not forgetting anything unless of course you misplace the spreadsheet) and was meant as a guide. Adherence to the spreadsheet was not mandatory. And yes, when the next trip is planned a spreadsheet will be used. Ok,it is a wee bit compulsive. There, I said it. Now, on to more important stuff –like our B&B’s.

AmarAgua

We stayed in a variety of Bed and Breakfasts and all had their own unique character. But hold on, I need to mention something. I do not like eggs unless they are well disguised in say a quiche or strata. I will eat scrambled eggs occasionally but NOT if they are wet and slimy. No omelets, soft or hard boiled -blech, yuk to poached and fried eggs are just wrong, in fact I have been known to gag –ahem- at the sight of a runny yolk. Now that’s off my chest, I need to tell you that B&B’s in both the UK and Ireland serve eggs for breakfast - lots and lots of eggs. And those eggs are served with grilled tomatoes which are really very good on their own but every day??? Digression over please proceed…

A good over view of our London digs can be found in an earlier post but I will say that Barclay House B&B earned five stars from me -comfortable beds with ensuite (toilet and shower in the room), good access to public transportation, a variety of restaurants nearby, and great hosts.  It was part of a row of Victorian town houses (vintage 1878) where I expected Mary Poppins and Bert the Chimney Sweep to appear with umbrellas and brooms in hand. The accommodation in York was no less comfortable. St. Raphael Guest House was built in 1900 and survived WWII –the scars from shell impacts can still be seen. A young couple with a darling two year old ran the place and a hot breakfast was served up each day. And as you know –I am not fond of runny or wet eggs and their eggs were a bit too wiggly for me. But the home made bread baked fresh each day made up for the slimy eggs. The wonderful smell of fresh bread greeted us in the morning and was great touch. St Rafael’s was walkable to all the sights in York including the National Railroad Museum and boy did we walk. Of course I had a bit of a mishap at St. Raphael but let’s just skip that.  AmarAgua in Edinburgh was my favorite B&B for a whole bunch of reasons. The hosts were so charming and the breakfasts were the best. AmarAgua provided an opportunity to have porridge. Irish oatmeal topped with fresh blueberries and strawberries and served with cream and warm syrup. Yum.  Housed in a 1880ish stone building (Hello Mary Poppins), It  is beautifully furnished, with easy access to public transportation and views of Arthur’s Seat nearby –I was in heaven.  One Miller Time we sat in their Japanese Garden and got all zen-like with our gin. Ahem.

Arthur's Seat

Teach Eoghain run by Marian Sweeney in Gortahork, County Donegal and was our home for a couple of days and quite close to where my relatives live . With her easy laugh and penchant for story telling, our host Marian was a real hoot. It was the first place where we experienced black and white pudding - blood sausage. You don’t want to know what’s in it but I can tell you that it is dry –very very dry and even more interesting with eggs –hoo boy. Our host in Cashel (Joan) was full of sight-seeing suggestions for not only Cashel but all of Ireland.  Had I know this ahead of time, I might have asked her where the closest Tank Museum was located. Joan  provided breakfast choices that included the full Irish  (eggs, toast, sausage, bacon, black pudding -aka blood sausage-, grilled tomato, and grilled mushrooms) and Irish pancakes. I was all over the pancakes which were more like crepes and served with lemon juice and sugar.  
 

Mt Errigal near Gortahork

 

Other memorable stuff …


John was the 85 yr old man that we met in Ennis at our B&B. He was in a great deal of pain from a back injury. After breakfast we wished him well and forgot about him. On our last night in Dublin we decided to have dinner in the hotel restaurant/bar. While waiting for our dinner, I noticed a man with a familiar face. Geeze, was that the old guy we met in Ennis and if it is he’s made a remarkable recovery. Yes, John was there with a friend. Both had Guinness in hand and John had no signs of injury. Of course he remembered us from Ennis and proclaimed that he’d experienced a miracle. His friend said it was the restorative power of Guinness. Well, chalk another one up to Guinness  -it is good for you.

Signage in both the UK and Ireland is different and sometimes amusing for example -No fly Tipping. It can be a challenge to find street signs in both places especially when driving, as they are placed on the sides of buildings rather than poles on corners. Place names are also interesting - The House of Trembling Madness is a pub in York,  the Whip-Ma-Whop-Ma-Gate  is also in York although I am not exactly sure what it is, The Whistle Binkie Pub and Flesh Market Close (street/alley) are both in Edinburgh and believe it or not Gaoth Dobhair is Gweedore in Donegal, Ireland. And a couple of signs in Ireland -well just scroll down...

Someone help me!

I know this is not Flesh Market Close

 Gaeltacht region of Donegal

This amused me and I don't know why

Speaks for itself

More random wrap-ups...

Traveling for nearly a month does have its challenges. Going out for dinner every night was a problem for The Big Fella. It didn't bother me as much because I hold fast to the notion that if I have to cook dinner every night, I am not on vacation. Speaking of food, in my opinion the best pub food we had was at The House of Trembling Madness in York. The large pie, mash, and mushy peas were just what I wanted and The Big Fella was quite satisfied with sausage, mash and mushy peas. Mushy peas  -a bit like baby food in texture and are unlikely to be the next food fad in Seattle. Despite their lovely green color, mushy peas are not disgusting  -and they are not eggs.  In Edinburgh  The Yak and Yeti served up Tibetan/Indian fare, which was memorable and delicious. The Big Fella thought it was the best meal of the trip. Thai food in Ireland was a nice surprise. In Fulham (London) I had Sea Bream (fish) for the first time at Manuka's and it was one of my favorite meals. Did the waist line expand as a result of eating-out? Erm, yes but yours truly is back in the kitchen and minding The Big Fella's caloric intake, as well as my own.

We met Anna -aka the Navigator-in Belfast where she joined us for the Ireland leg of the trip Family rooms in B&B's were booked by yours truly to save a bit of money, and that meant the three of us shared a room. Not living at home for 10+ years, she apparently forgot that The Big Fella snores -every night- and sometimes at the decibel level of a jet engine. She brought ear plugs but complained that the snoring was not completely blocked-out. Trying to to convince her to imagine the night time noise as a symphony, or ocean waves hitting the beach was futile. The Big Fella does have a repertoire that occasionally interferes with my sleep but really the snoring on this trip was akin to a gentle purr -compared to some nights at home. The Navigator was unconvinced about the gentle purr business but she managed and we would've been quite lost without her navigational skills. Were it not for the Navigator, it is highly likely that The Big Fella and yours truly would be-as I write this-still stuck in a round about someplace in Ireland driving in a circle desperate to make our break for it.  She plotted a course through Dublin's one way, unmarked, traffic laden streets not only to our hotel but to the airport when we dropped off the car. There were only a couple testy moments.

So what were my favorite moments? There too many to list here but at the top was meeting some of my Irish cousins for the first time. As second cousins, we are bound together through our great grandparents Nellie(Ellen) and John Cannon. Nellie and John were life long residents of Meenboy, in County Donegal and had seven children. Two of their daughters married and moved to Scotland and one son, my grandfather left Ireland and permanently settled in the U.S. Four of Nellie and John's children remained in their home land. The land and house where my grandfather and siblings were born remains in the Cannon family and what a blessing for me to be able to visit my ancestral home. My Dad and his Brother had a large extended family in Ireland but knew little about them. I often wonder what the trajectory of their lives would have been had they been born and raised in Ireland.  I treasure that I have had the privilege to meet Isabella and husband David, Frances and husband Tony, Mick and wife Anne, and finally Seamus and wife Anne whom I'd met on my first visit to Donegal in 1997. All are children of my Dad's first cousins -none of whom he met. Nellie and John Cannon must be smiling down on their great grandchildren. I am so my father's daughter and getting a bit sappy  --starting to tear-up, so..

Lastly, I need to thank our wonderful neighbors Jim and Megan who watched our house while we were gone. Jim even mowed the grass. We couldn't be gone for such a long time without such great and caring friends and neighbors.And with that...

I am going to declare that the chronicle of this trip is now done. There is no doubt that I will return to the UK and Ireland but this chapter of Moose and Mosquito Tours is over.  Cut, print, it's a wrap!

Slán go fóill